Patterns and Carving

There's a bit of a difference between these two patterns.  The Santa is a front view and the Gnome is a side view.

When you draw your own patterns you may draw some of each.  Some will say it's easier to draw and carve from the side view blank.

Here's a photo of (from the left) a front view paper pattern of a Santa, a sawed out wood blank of the front view Santa, A roughed in carving from a front view blank of a Santa, and a finished carving from a front view Santa.

Here's photo of the side views of Gnome, from the paper pattern to the finished carving.

There are subtle differences between carving a blank that is cut from a side view pattern and one cut from the front view pattern.  One of the main differences is when carving the "front view" pattern one must be sure to rough in the piece in such a way that it will not have that "flat" look when carved.  While this is important when carving from the side view blank;  there is more wood to be removed from the front view blank to be sure it is rounded.

We'll be focusing on these differences (front view carving and side view carving) in the next few postings.......

A Heightened Respect For Spoon Carvers

I have long admired a well designed, carved, and finished lovespoon.  I have even had the opportunity to watch a very good spoon designer and carver, on a weekly basis.  This spoon designer and carver is Laura Gorun.  Here's two examples of her work - or should I say her love.

Now here are some examples of Laura's spoons that she completed for a club demonstration/ instruction (Columbus Woodchippers).  Laura had blanks for each of these spoons, and lead us through the carving process that she uses.  Note how these spoons appear to be so much easier to carve than the spoons in the previous photos.

This demonstration/lesson was great, and I did attempt one of Laura's spoons (the second from the right).  I had every intention of posting a photo of my attempt.  But embarrassment won out and you'll just have to envision a really crappy job that I did.  Besides, my real intention is showcase Laura's spoons.  Laura uses only knife and gouge to produce her spoon.  The only power she uses is in sawing the blanks out.  Yes, I have a new respect for spoon carving....

Popsicle Stick Switchblade!

Here's a great little give-away, that satisfies several challenges.  First, you may need to have a way of disposing of small practice whittlings; but not in the fireplace.  And second, times arise when you may want to give some kids something fun.  This may be the answer.  A popsicle stick switchblade.

You may have to demonstrate and explain what a switchblade is, but I guarantee the youngest will catch on.

All you need is a whittled piece (in this example, a wizard), a clothes pin, two popsicle sticks, a rubber band, and some glue.

Make sure the whittled piece has a flat back.
1. Glue the whittled piece to one side of the clothes pin.  
2. Cut a notch on both sides of the ends of two popsicle sticks.  This will hold the rubber band.
3. Glue one popsicle stick to the opposite side of the clothes pin where the whittled piece is glued, with the notched end out.
4. Tightly wrap a small rubber band around the end of the popsicle stick that is glued to the clothes pin.
5. Lay the other popsicle stick on top of the glued up popsicle stick, and push it through the wrapped rubber band so that the wrapped rubber band goes around both popsicle sticks at the notches.

This popsicle stick switchblade is ready to "arm".

To "arm" the switchblade fold the unglued stick back towards the clothes pin.  Pinch open the clothes pin and close it on the popsicle stick.

Need I tell how to "operate" the popsicle stick switchblade?

Just tell em to be careful with it.

Selling Your Carvings!

This blog has posted up on this subject before.  I do sell some of my work.  However, my decision to sell was not driven to make mucho money.  Instead, it was to keep on making Noah's Arks and the pairs of animals.  My house was over crowded with Noah's Arks and all the relatives had one, and I still wanted to keep on making them.  So I started selling.  But a word of caution!  This is a hobby, something that I love to do.  I said right off, "I'll quit as soon as it approaches being a job".  So far that has not happened with the Noah's Arks.  My other passion is whittling small Santa's, Gnomes, Leprechauns, Wizards, and the like.  What do I do with all of them?  I give most of them away, and sell some at a very minimum price.

There's a warning here.  One can get burnt out if a schedule of art festivals, sales, commissions, and shows require you to carve more and more to just keep up.  Not only can you get burnt out, but the quality of your work will suffer.  Once an obligation to carve/whittle to produce pieces replaces the love of the hobby; it might be time to stop and rethink things.  I am about to "rethink" my decision.  Since I have determined that I really enjoy teaching newer whittlers and carvers, and "turning on" folks to the joys of whittling and carving; I am considering a different venue.  A venue that allows me to participate in art festivals, fairs, and shows  and demonstrate whittling and carving to non carvers (young and older), while still selling the Noah's Arks.

Murray / Mertz Carving Knife

Several posts ago I featured this carving knife made by BUD MURRAY and designed by DON MERTZ.  I have just received some information from BUD MURRAY about orders for this knife.  Bud has experienced some computer spam, that caused his filters to delete all kinds of e mails, some of which were contacts by folks wanting to order one of these excellent knives.

If you have contacted Bud Murray by e-mail and have not had a return communication, please e mail Bud again.  wjmurray@dam.net

Nose Job To Save A Carving!

We have all learned to "block in " a carving before we attempt any detail.  Blocking in takes some time, and can represent some investment beyond time.  This reality, plus a frugality that may be present in all older carvers means we will go to all extremes to save a carving.  Save a carving from what?  When "detailing" a carving have you ever cut off its nose?  I carve a lot of Santa ornaments and pins.  Some times I get in a hurry and my knife slips and off goes the nose.  Throw it away and start over?  Never!  I keep a bunch of round wood beads and Super Glue handy for such an occasion.

OPPS!

NOSE JOB!

OK! So he kinda looks like Santa with a clown nose......

Demo Carving!

"Demo" is short for demonstration.  And demo carving is demonstrating carving to someone.  I think every whittler/carver needs to have a special piece that they can Whittle/carve as a demonstration for someone.  Why do I think this?  Folks, young and old are intrigued by carving.  It's a good way to share your talent, andperhaps lead some one into carving; younger folks especially.

To feel comfortable in demonstrating, you need to pick a piece to whittle/carve that you like to carve, one that is smaller, quick to carve/whittle, is impressive when done.  Once you settle on the piece, you'll need to practice whittling/carving it until it nearly becomes second nature for you to do.  For me these demo pieces are the 5 minute owl, and the standing Gnome.  The standing Gnome is the only one that I cut a blank out for.

Whenever I'm out, I carry a knife and a few pieces of Basswood in my pocket.  While at a carving show, arts festival, or just sitting on a bench, you'll find me whittling.  You never know when there's an opportunity to lead someone to trying their hand at carving.

WEATHER WIZARD

PENGUIN

5 MINUTE OWL

STANDING GNOME

Protect Your Carving Knife

I don't know how many times I read on the WCI forum, of folks cutting themselves while reaching into a bag or box to retrieve their knife.  And I cringe when I think of folks who just throw their knife into a box along with other tools, and expect the blade not to get damaged.

Here's a good solution.  One of the fellows who I carve with brought a bunch of leather samples in and I snatched some up right away.  I waited around until I got a 40% off coupon from JOANNS and bought the leather punch and a spool of lanyard  material.  The wine cork (imitation) was acquired in a more traditional way.   Let's see, one wine bottle cork for each of my carving knives.  Just one more reward for safety.  The hardest thing about making these knife protectors was remembering scout camp from the early 50's, where I learned how to work with the lanyard material.

3 - Inch Gnome - Tutorial D

 We can start to clean up and refine the features of the Gnome.  Make the beard a bit smaller, put some shape to the shoes, and deepen any areas that need it.  Soften the edges of the arms by removng slices of wood from the edges.  I don't round the arms or lags, because I want the Flat Plane look.

Make stop cuts on the Gnomes back to define the hair line, arms, and the pants top.  Use the knife to take slices down to the stops cuts.

If the reference lines have not been carved off, you might want to do that too.

I used a V-tool to texture the beard and hair, then gave the piece a good scrubbing with DAWN Liquid soap and a denture brush.

I can either paint the Gnome, finish it natural, or stain it.

For those that don't like the flat plane look, you can do some carving to round off the edges.
With some practice this little Gnome can be whittled in 15 to 30 minutes.  And they sure make great little handouts or gifts.  Heck! who doesn't like a Gnome?

3 - Inch Gnome - Tutorial C

OOPS  I got ahead of myself.  I got carried away whittling the Gnome, and did too many steps, without stopping to take photographs.  I'll put up a photo,  plus a description of the actual smaller steps.  Sorry, but some times I just get carried away when whittling.....

Make a stop cut in front of the ears to extend the beard line up to the bottom of the hat.

Remove a sliver of wood in front of the ear up to the stop cut.

Make stop cut at the pocket line, and remove a sliver of wood down to this stop cut.

Make a stop cut to define the top of the mustache, and remove a sliver of wood down to this stop cut.  (NOTE: This stop cut can be a rather tight arc/curve, and may test your knife's tip.  The Murray/Mertz detail knife is up to this task, I'm happy to report.)

Make a stop cut to define the bottom of the mustache.  Use the knife to remove slivers of wood up to this stop cut.